news post by Ankush on 25 Oct 2017,Wednesday
Chile has been named the best country to visit next year by Lonely Planet in its ‘Best in Travel 2018’ list. South Korea and Portugal have ranked second and third respectively, while Djibouti and New Zealand have completed the top five. The other countries featured on the list are Malta, Georgia, Mauritius, China and South Africa.
Portals into Chile’s Poetic Soul
A voyage of discovery into the sea-buffeted soul of Chile can scarce be seriously contemplated without delving into the life and legacy of the colourful Neruda. The Swedish Academy said, upon awarding the poet the planet’s most prestigious literary accolade in 1971, that he “brings alive a continent’s destiny and dreams” but whilst his work eulogised Latin America from Mexico to Machu Picchu and Patagonia, it was Chile that he wrote about most evocatively and extensively. Chile’s landscapes helped him produce his best work, and nowhere fuelled his muse more than the places where he lived.
Neruda owned three houses in Chile during his lifetime and here the spirit of the man − and in many ways of the country – burns brightest today, 44 years after his death. The poet’s former residences are respectively in the Bohemian neighbourhood of Bellavista in Santiago; in the gritty, animated seaport of Valparaiso; and in the idyllic retreat of Isla Negra on a rugged coastline some 70km south. In its wild 4250km tip-to-tail length, Chile holds a treasure trove of better-known natural attractions, but these three photogenic destinations in the nation’s zona central (central zone) provide a fascinating insight into its culture.
La Chascona, Bellavista, Santiago
The Chilean Capital’s Bohemian quarter for half a century, Bellavista enjoys the beautiful views its name intimates. Clustering up the sides of Santiago’s second-highest hill, Cerro San Cristobal (880m), its cute candy-coloured houses flank a dazzling array of restaurants and bars. But its avant-garde charms only arrived after its first famous resident, Neruda, moved here in the 1950s.
Steeply tiered on multiple levels up the hillside towards Chile’s mountains and with a stream gushing through the grounds, Casa La Chascona, Neruda once asserted, was close enough to the city zoo on Cerro San Cristobal to hear the lions roar. The poet began building the house as a getaway for himself and his then mistress and future wife, Matilde Urrutia. His influence on the construction was flamboyant and immediate: seeing the architect’s plans for the house to face the morning sunlight and the city below, Neruda had the prospect switched northeast instead to look out over the Andes. The residence developed into a poet’s flight of fancy. Neruda was a collector, and his houses, like his poetry, all became reflections of the things he collected.
In his Santiago residence, these collections seem distinctly Chilean in character. The vines common to this region of Chile decorate the entranceway. The maritime theme is evident in everything from the many glass fishing floats to the driftwood pillars to a living room resembling a lighthouse and a dining room modelled on a captain’s cabin. Geographically, in this long, thin, coast-hugging nation, the sea is never distant and in Neruda’s houses it is ever-present too, imbued into the buildings’ very fabric.
Neruda set the trend for Bellavista’s emergence as a haven for artists and intellectuals: La Chascona welcomed plenty, including Mexican muralist Diego Rivera who painted a two-faced portrait of Urrutia which hangs in the house to this day. One face depicts the Urrutia the public knew, the other the Urrutia Neruda loved, with the poet’s face painted into Urrutia’s curly hair. It was his lover’s curls that gave La Chascona its moniker, and the place is replete with those intimate details of a love affair: objects that were shared passions, shared secrets or shared jokes and the sensation Neruda or Urrutia could laughingly emerge from an adjoining room any moment. In this sense, La Chascona reaches far beyond the role of museum and feels more like you are there in the moment all those years ago with the poet and his muse. “Here has risen Casa La Chascona,” Neruda wrote, “with water that runs, writing its own language.”